Fashion - Library Resources: Books & Print Material

The clothing industry employs 25 million people globally contributing to many livelihoods and the prosperity of communities, to women's independence, and the establishment of significant infrastructures in poorer countries. Yet the fashion industry is also a significant contributor to the degradation of natural systems, with the associated environmental footprint of clothing high in comparison with other products. Routledge Handbook of Sustainability and Fashion recognizes the complexity of aligning fashion with sustainability. It explores fashion and sustainability at the levels of products, processes, and paradigms and takes a truly multi-disciplinary approach to critically question and suggest creative responses to issues of: * Fashion in a post-growth society * Fashion, diversity and equity * Fashion, fluidity and balance across natural, social and economic systems This handbook is a unique resource for a wide range of scholars and students in the social sciences, arts and humanities interested in sustainability and fashion.

From the first animal skin body coverings, to today's high fashion collections, fashion has held an important role in the evolution of mankind. The fashion industry has, and continues to make, major contributions to our cultural and social environment. It is an industry that responds to our inherent longing for tribal belonging, our socio-economic needs, individual lifestyles, status stratification and profession apparel requirements. The fashion industry is fast-paced, complex and ever changing, in response to consumer needs. Throughout the world, vast numbers of people contribute to this industry, each with the shared goal of supplying an end product of a particular price point directed at a target consumer. This second edition of Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry contains a chronology, an introduction, appendixes, and an extensive bibliography. The dictionary section has over 1,400 cross-referenced entries on designers, models, couture houses, significant articles of apparel and fabrics, trade unions, and the international trade organizations. This book is an excellent resource for students, researchers, and anyone wanting to know more about the fashion industry.

An insider's look at how the rise of "fast fashion" obstructs ethical shopping and fuels the abuse and neglect of garment workers "With years of expertise in the fashion industry, Alyssa's reporting is consistently deep and thoughtful, and her work on sustainability and ethics has changed how I view the clothes I wear." --Brittney McNamara, features director at Teen Vogue Ours is the era of fast fashion: a time of cheap and constantly changing styles for consumers of every stripe, with new clothing hitting the racks every season as social media-fueled tastes shift. Worn Out examines the underside of our historic clothing binge and the fashion industry's fall from grace. Former InStyle senior news editor and seasoned journalist Alyssa Hardy's riveting work explores the lives of the millions of garment workers--mostly women of color--who toil in the fashion industry around the world--from LA-based sweatshop employees who experience sexual abuse while stitching clothes for H&M, Fashion Nova, and Levi's to "homeworkers" in Indonesia who are unknowingly given carcinogenic materials to work with. Worn Out exposes the complicity of celebrities whose endorsements obscure the exploitation behind marquee brands and also includes interviews with designers such as Mara Hoffman, whose business models are based on ethical production standards. Like many of us, Hardy believes in the personal, political, and cultural place fashion has in our lives, from seed to sew to closet, and that it is still okay to indulge in its glitz and glamour. But the time has come, she argues, to force real change on an industry that prefers to keep its dark side behind the runway curtain. The perfect book for people who are passionate about clothing and style, Worn Out seeks to engage in a real conversation about who gets harmed by fast fashion--and offers meaningful solutions for change.

This globe-spanning history of sewing and embroidery, culture and protest, is "an astonishing feat . . . richly textured and moving" (The Sunday Times, UK).  In 1970s Argentina, mothers marched in headscarves embroidered with the names of their "disappeared" children. In Tudor, England, when Mary, Queen of Scots, was under house arrest, her needlework carried her messages to the outside world. From the political propaganda of the Bayeux Tapestry, World War I soldiers coping with PTSD, and the maps sewn by schoolgirls in the New World, to the AIDS quilt, Hmong story clothes, and pink pussyhats, women and men have used the language of sewing to make their voices heard, even in the most desperate of circumstances.  Threads of Life is a chronicle of identity, memory, power, and politics told through the stories of needlework. Clare Hunter, master of the craft, threads her own narrative as she takes us over centuries and across continents--from medieval France to contemporary Mexico and the United States, and from a POW camp in Singapore to a family attic in Scotland--to celebrate the universal beauty and power of sewing.

Enter the exciting intersection of technology and fashion known as wearable computing. Learn about the future of electronics in clothing and textiles, and be a part of creating that future! Crafting Wearables begins with the history of the field, then covers current practices and future trends. You will gain deeper insight into the strategy behind the design of wearable devices while learning about the tools and materials needed to start your own wearables toolbox. In a time when consumer electronics are becoming smaller and seamlessly integrated into our lives, it is important to understand how technology can improve and augment your lifestyle. Wearables are in a sense the most organic and natural interface we can design, yet there is still doubt about how quickly wearable technologies will become the cultural norm. Furthermore, skills that have become less valuable over the years, such as sewing, are making a return with the wearables movement.  Gives a better understanding of wearable technology and how it has evolved Teaches basic skills and techniques to familiarize you with the tools and materials Showcases breakthrough designs and discoveries that impact our everyday interactions What You'll Learn Learn the history of how technology in fashion has evolved over time Discover interesting materials and fabrics for use in wearable technology Glimpse new tools for designing wearable technology and fashion Rediscover sewing and related skills that every wearables enthusiast should learn Learn how new techniques in textile manufacturing could disrupt the fashion industry Understand and respond to the cultural and societal developments around wearables Who This Book Is For The curious designer, engineer, or creative who is looking for insight into the world of fashion technology. It is for someone who wants to start exploring wearables with basic projects and dig deeper into the methods and tools of an expert. Crafting Wearables is intended to impart comprehensive general knowledge of the state of wearables in different industries while providing a well-curated list of example projects and resources by which to begin your personal journey into e-textiles. It is a wonderful read for those who are looking to expand their understanding of fashion and technology from both a hands-on and research-based perspective.

Fully updated with new interviews and inspiring images, the 2nd edition of Developing a Fashion Collection covers everything the fashion student needs to know before designing their own collections. Developing a Fashion Collection focuses on the process of designing a collection, and explores different types of research, fabric sourcing, the key roles within a design team and the many sources of inspiration available to designers. Different market levels from ready-to-wear to online shopping are covered in-depth, and are given real-world context through insightful interviews with practising contemporary designers. Collections for niche markets, including knitwear, childrenswear and footwear are also discussed. The 2nd edition of Developing a Fashion Collection features interviews with high-profile international contemporary fashion designers, including Sister by Sibling, Holly Fulton, Todd Lynn, thefuturelaboratory, People Tree, Leutton Postle and Insley & Nash.

How wealthy American women--as consumers and as influencers--helped shape French couture of the late nineteenth century; lavishly illustrated. French fashion of the late nineteenth century is known for its allure, its ineffable chic--think of John Singer Sargent's Madame X and her scandalously slipping strap. For Parisian couturiers and their American customers, it was also serious business. In Dressing Up, Elizabeth Block examines the couturiers' influential clientele--wealthy American women who bolstered the French fashion industry with a steady stream of orders from the United States. Countering the usual narrative of the designer as solo creative genius, Block shows that these women--as high-volume customers and as pre-Internet influencers--were active participants in the era's transnational fashion system. Block describes the arrival of nouveau riche Americans on the French fashion scene, joining European royalty, French socialites, and famous actresses on the client rosters of the best fashion houses--Charles Frederick Worth, Doucet, and Felix, among others. She considers the mutual dependence of couture and coiffure; the participation of couturiers in international expositions (with mixed financial results); the distinctive shopping practices of American women, which ranged from extensive transatlantic travel to quick trips downtown to the department store; the performance of conspicuous consumption at balls and soirees; the impact of American tariffs on the French fashion industry; and the emergence of smuggling, theft, and illicit copying of French fashions in the American market as the middle class emulated the preferences of the rich. Lavishly illustrated, with vibrant images of dresses, portraits, and fashion plates, Dressing Up reveals the power of American women in French couture. Winner of the Aileen Ribeiro Grant of the Association of Dress Historians; an Association for Art History grant; and a Pasold Research Fund grant.

Our love affair with the baseball jersey continues in thismajor new book on the evolution of the iconic shirt as sportswear, streetwear,cultural icon, and fashion must-have. The Iconic Jersey: Baseball x Fashion is an essential volumefor baseball fans and fashion lovers alike, examining our obsession with thebaseball jersey over more than 170 years. Jam-packed with striking photographsof baseball jerseys--both historic and contemporary--as well as baseball-inspiredfashion, it explores the design and development of our iconic American-styleshirt through both sport and fashion.

Fashioning Spain is a cultural history of Spanish fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries, a period of significant social, political, and economic upheaval. As Spain moved from dictatorship to democracy and, most recently, to the digital age, fashion has experienced seismic shifts. The chapters in this collection reveal how women empowered themselves through fashion choices, detail Balenciaga's international stardom, present female photographers challenging gender roles under Franco's rule, and uncover the politicization of the mantilla. In the visual culture of Spanish fashion, tradition and modernity coexist and compete, reflecting society's changing affects. Using a range of case studies and approaches, this collection explores fashion in films, comics from la Movida, Rosalía's music videos, and both brick-and-mortar and virtual museums. It demonstrates that fashion is ripe with historical meaning, and offers unique insights into the many facets of Spanish cultural life.

One of Vogue Business 100Innovators 2022 "The Power of Plus will leave you feeling inspired, motivated, and ready to push for real change, as well as confident and encouraged to embrace yourself, just as you are. This is essential reading for anyone who truly cares about the future of fashion, and for anyone who believes in the power of being yourself." --Versha Sharma, editor in chief, Teen Vogue Plus-size fashion revolutionizes the way women view themselves and their bodies.  Exclusivity runs within the foundation of fashion. While calls for diversity have intensified recently, long-held attitudes are only beginning to change. But through social media, plus-size people have been able to create supportive communities that show their confidence, strength, and beauty. Plus-size fashionistas have been writing their own narrative for the past three decades, creating a market all on their own that is now worth more than $21 billion. The Power of Plus features interviews with trailblazers such as Tess Holliday, Emme Aronson, Gabi Gregg, and more as it follows the evolution of plus-size fashion from its start on small blogs to its current boom, examining the way this market has changed women's relationships with their bodies and how plus-size fashion is integral to the future success of the industry. Plus-size fashion is not a PR stunt. It is a culture-changing market created by and for the people who have always deserved to feel stylish but never had the visibility to be . . . until now.  By honoring our progress so far, The Power of Plus celebrates the next stage of the plus-size fashion movement.

A behind-the-scenes look at the only fashion show held at the White House and the intersections of fashion and politics On February 29, 1968, the White House hosted its first--and only--fashion show. At the time, the patriotic event was lauded by the press, and many predicted it would become an annual occasion, especially since fashion had grown to become the fourth largest industry in the United States, employing 1.4 million Americans, more than 80 percent of them women. But the social and political turmoil of that particular year--from the Vietnam War, the civil rights movement, and the assassinations of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. and Senator Robert F. Kennedy--cast a shadow over the festivities. Using eyewitness accounts as well as carefully preserved records, artifacts, and previously unpublished images, Red, White, and Blue on the Runway re-creates the once-in-a-lifetime event and explores the reasons why the first White House fashion show was destined to be the last. The politics of fashion touched everyone involved in this landmark occasion in American fashion history, from hostess Lady Bird Johnson and the Johnson daughters to the designers, including Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene, Mollie Parnis, and Oscar de la Renta, as well as the models and guests. Those guests included the wives of governors and of President Johnson's Cabinet, in addition to dozens of fashion designers and prominent journalists who reported on the event. In our own turbulent political climate, Red, White, and Blue on the Runway takes us back to an equally tense time, providing a unique historical perspective on themes of fashion, politics, protest, and image-making that are immediately relevant today.

Learn how Artificial Intelligence (AI) is being applied in the fashion industry. With an application focused approach, this book provides real-world examples, breaks down technical jargon for non-technical readers, and provides an educational resource for fashion professionals.  The book investigates the ways in which AI is impacting every part of the fashion value chain starting with product discovery and working backwards to manufacturing. Artificial Intelligence for Fashion walks you through concepts, such as connected retail, data mining, and artificially intelligent robotics.  Each chapter contains an example of how AI is being applied in the fashion industry illustrated by one major technological theme. There are no equations, algorithms, or code. The technological explanations are cumulative so you'll discover more information about the inner workings of artificial intelligence in practical stages as the book progresses.  What You'll Learn Gain a basic understanding of AI and how it is used in fashion Understand key terminology and concepts in AI Review the new competitive landscape of the fashion industry Conceptualize and develop new ways to apply AI within the workplace Who This Book Is For Fashion industry professionals from designers, managers, department heads, and executives can use this book to learn about how AI is impacting roles in every department and profession. 

From ruby slippers to fashion runways, Adrian: A Lifetime of Movie Glamour, Art and High Fashion is a visual celebration of the life and work of the man behind some of the most memorable fashions of Hollywood's golden age. This book is a bright and vivacious look at the fashion, art and homes of one of the most celebrated fashion designers of the twentieth century. Adrian (1903-1959) designed costumes for over 150 Hollywood productions, including fabulous gowns worn by such iconic actresses as Greta Garbo, Norma Shearer, Joan Crawford, Judy Garland, and Katharine Hepburn. He then went on to found one of the most popular and influential fashion labels of the mid-twentieth century, Adrian, Ltd. He had a passion for art and interior design, as seen in his impeccably decorated homes, which he shared with his wife, Hollywood movie star Janet Gaynor, and his personal paintings and sketches. The man who created the famous ruby slippers worn in The Wizard of Oz was also the first American designer honored with a retrospective at the Smithsonian Institution, and his influence can still be felt on the runways in New York and Paris today. This is the first book on the famed Hollywood fashion and costume designer to be published with the cooperation of his family. With a foreword by the designer's son, Robin, as well as a treasure trove of never-before-seen images and anecdotes taken from Adrian's unpublished manuscript, this is the definitive book on the life of the legendary designer.

Christian Dior: The Illustrated World of a Fashion Master is a stunning illustrated biography of legendary designer Christian Dior from internationally renowned fashion illustrator Megan Hess. Discover the key moments of Dior's fascinating life and iconic items from the fashion world that he created. Dior's love of flowers, creativity, femininity and good-luck charms were woven into everything he designed, and his New Look remains iconic to this day. Elegantly enclosed by a hardback cover and ribbon, Megan's beautiful illustrations follow Dior through three distinct chapters: the highs and lows of his early life, set against a backdrop of bohemian and wartime Paris; the couture house that he built into an empire in just ten years; and the incredible legacy he left behind for one of fashion's most influential brands. Christian Dior is a celebration of a man whose life was as remarkable as the clothes that he created, brought to life on the page by the expert hand of Megan Hess.

In what ways do changing notions of social class correspond with key developments in the history of fashion? Focusing on examples ranging from 18th-century Britain to aspects of the global fashion industry in the early 21st century, Fashion and Class examines the meaning and evolution of the term 'class', from its Marxist origins to modern day interpretations. Did industrialisation, technological change and developments in fashion retailing bring about a degree of 'class levelling' or in fact intensify class antagonism? And to what extent does modern mass consumption and cheap labour revive some of the ethical issues faced in 19th-century British textile factories? Exploring a variety of case studies that examine the changing relationships between fashion and class in different historical contexts, from the French revolutionaries of the 1780-90s through to the changing relationships between couture, designer and high-street fashion in the mid-20th century and onwards, Fashion and Class is essential reading for those wishing to understand the ways in which the fashion system is closely connected with ideas of class.

Beginning with Alexander McQueen's infamous attempt to live stream his 2009 Plato's Atlantis collection on SHOWStudio, this book traces how digital and social media have disrupted social structures within the field of fashion, and transformed the way it is communicated and consumed. Analysing key case studies, from Chanel, Givenchy, Yeezy and Opening Cermony to interactive social media and 'see now buy now' campaigns from Burberry, Topshop and Tommy Hilfiger, The Fashion Show Goes Live analyses the mode and impact of fashion shows' transmission. Through the rise of experimental film, fashion shows tailored for media transmission and the use of live streaming and social media to render shows 'immediate' to consumers, fashion weeks - and fashion shows - have become not just trend barometers but material sites that demonstrate media's effects. Rebecca Halliday evaluates the performativity of consumer relations to such live streams and other mediatized content. In linking these relations back to fashion show footage, she demonstrates that although intended to communicate fashion to mass audiences, these practices also promote it as exclusive and aspirational. Despite democratized, international access to content, the shows themselves remain elite events; kindling new forms of consumer attention, interaction, immaterial labour and desire. Through the microcosm of the fashion show, The Fashion Show Goes Live asks broader socio-political questions about the effects of the fashion industry's mediatization, challenging the notion that new technology has fostered inclusivity.

A "sharp and entertaining" (The Wall Street Journal) exploration of fashion through the ages that asks what our clothing reveals about ourselves and our society. Dress codes are as old as clothing itself. For centuries, clothing has been a wearable status symbol; fashion, a weapon in struggles for social change; and dress codes, a way to maintain political control. Merchants dressing like princes and butchers' wives wearing gem-encrusted crowns were public enemies in medieval societies structured by social hierarchy and defined by spectacle. In Tudor England, silk, velvet, and fur were reserved for the nobility, and ballooning pants called "trunk hose" could be considered a menace to good order. The Renaissance-era Florentine patriarch Cosimo de Medici captured the power of fashion and dress codes when he remarked, "One can make a gentleman from two yards of red cloth." Dress codes evolved along with the social and political ideals of the day, but they always reflected struggles for power and status. In the 1700s, South Carolina's "Negro Act" made it illegal for Black people to dress "above their condition." In the 1920s, the bobbed hair and form-fitting dresses worn by free-spirited flappers were banned in workplaces throughout the United States, and in the 1940s, the baggy zoot suits favored by Black and Latino men caused riots in cities from coast to coast. Even in today's more informal world, dress codes still determine what we wear, when we wear it--and what our clothing means. People lose their jobs for wearing braided hair, long fingernails, large earrings, beards, and tattoos or refusing to wear a suit and tie or make-up and high heels. In some cities, wearing sagging pants is a crime. And even when there are no written rules, implicit dress codes still influence opportunities and social mobility. Silicon Valley CEOs wear t-shirts and flip-flops, setting the tone for an entire industry: women wearing fashionable dresses or high heels face ridicule in the tech world, and some venture capitalists refuse to invest in any company run by someone wearing a suit. In Dress Codes, law professor and cultural critic Richard Thompson Ford presents a "deeply informative and entertaining" (The New York Times Book Review) history of the laws of fashion from the middle ages to the present day, a walk down history's red carpet to uncover and examine the canons, mores, and customs of clothing--rules that we often take for granted. After reading Dress Codes, you'll never think of fashion as superficial again--and getting dressed will never be the same.

This seminal text demystifies the terminology of working in the fashion industry today, providing definitions of processes, techniques, features, and even some historical terms that you need to know. The dictionary now includes coverage of sustainability, smart materials, new technologies, and processes. This book has been reorganized in a purely alphabetical order for easy reference. Lavishly illustrated with over 800 illustrations capturing the styles and details of fashion, this reference work is a must have for students, designers, fashion merchandisers, librarians, and fashion enthusiasts.

Celebrating 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the portraiture and wardrobe of the fashionable British man The style of the dandy is elegant but bold--dedicated to the perfection of taste. This meticulously choreographed look has a vibrant history; the legacy of Beau Brummell, the original dandy of Regency England, can be traced in the clothing of urban dandies today. Dandy Style celebrates 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the portraiture and wardrobe of the fashionable British man. Combining fashion, art, and photography, the historic and the contemporary, the provocative and the respectable, it considers key themes in the development of male style and identity, including elegance, uniformity, and spectacle. Various types of dandy are represented by iconic figures such as Oscar Wilde, Edward VIII as Prince of Wales, and Gilbert & George. They appear alongside the seminal designs of Vivienne Westwood, Ozwald Boateng, and Alexander McQueen; and portraits by Thomas Gainsborough and David Hockney. Published in association with Manchester Art Gallery Exhibition Schedule: Manchester Art Gallery (October 8, 2022-May 1, 2023)

What is the kimono? Everyday garment? Art object? Symbol of Japan? As this book shows, the kimono has served all of these roles, its meaning changing across time and with the perspective of the wearer or viewer.             Kimono: A Modern History begins by exposing the seventeenth- and eighteenth-century foundations of the modern kimono fashion industry. It explores the crossover between 'art' and 'fashion' in this period at the hands of famous Japanese painters who worked with clothing pattern books and painted directly onto garments. With Japan's exposure to Western fashion in the nineteenth century, and Westerners' exposure to Japanese modes of dress and design, the kimono took on new associations and came to symbolize an exotic culture and an alluring female form. In the aftermath of the Second World War, the kimono industry was sustained through government support. The line between fashion and art became blurred as kimonos produced by famous designers were collected for their beauty and displayed in museums, rather than being worn as clothing. Today, the kimono has once again taken on new dimensions, as the Internet and social media proliferate images of the kimono as a versatile garment to be integrated into a range of individual styles.             Kimono: A Modern History, the inspiration for a major exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York,not only tells the story of a distinctive garment's ever-changing functions and image, but provides a novel perspective on Japan's modernization and encounter with the West.

A style guide for women over 50 years of age, in the vein of Advanced Style (the only other style guide on the market for older women), but with more in-depth profiles of a range of stylish older women, combining inspiration with how-to instruction on how to put together beautiful stylish outfits according to every woman's individual style. Style icon Tziporah Salamon profiles an A list of the most stylish older women of today, showcasing their best outfits and revealing their closets, while imparting practical tips on how to put together beautiful outfits while expressing your own personal style.

Highlighting the skills and considerations needed to manage products, Virginia Grose introduces key processes such as product development, the supply chain and branding to help you quickly get to grips with the business side of fashion. Examining traditional and newer roles within the industry, discussing the roles of buyers, retailers and merchandisers interviews and case studies give insight into the realities of this competitive industry. This second edition has all new case studies, interviews and projects as well as coverage of sustainable practice, the use of social media, the circular economy and slow fashion. There's also more on digital storytelling, online and offline retailing and elements of retail entertainment for customers plus the impact of fast fashion throughout the industry.